Day 74:

Left Glen Aulin at 8:30am. Made 11 miles before lunch. Took a late afternoon break by a lake where I met a Korean couple, Tchoy and Minu (aka Sobonobo and Nutella). They carried a guitalele (small guitar) and a ukulele – so cool!

There was a bunch of climbing later in the day, so by 7pm, I was exhausted. Time to set up camp. 

16 Miles Today.

The Path:

Lakeside:

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Day 75:

It’s chilly this morning. Climbed to Benson Pass where I met up with Jammin’ and Superstar. We took a long break together and enjoyed the view. Eventually, we hiked on. I couldn’t match their pace, and soon I was alone. Had lunch at Seavey Pass, and on my way down, I met Supertramp, a girl from Korea. After a sketchy river crossing, we found Jammin’ and Superstar setting up camp, and we decided to join them. We all sat around the campfire and had great conversations. Doesn’t get much better than this.

16 Miles today. 

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Video (Day 74):

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Day 72:

So my phone’s out of battery, but it’s not a big deal since I was going to have a chance to charge later in the day at my next resupply point – Tuolumne Meadows, only 12 miles away. 

During the hike, I was stopped by a park ranger who verified that I had the appropriate permit and a bear canister, which I did, so I was sent on my way. 

Got to Tuolumne at 1pm, got my box and bought all the things – ice cream, chips, chocolate. Yum! Hung out with some fellow hikers while I grubbed.

Finally hit the trail at 4pm. Three hours later, I setup for the night by a stream in the beautiful Glen Aulin Campground. Ate dinner with a new friend called “Papa Squat,” but eventually the mosquitos became a nuisance, and I took shelter in my tent for the night. 

18 Miles today.

These views:

Such a great spot:

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Day 73:

Rest day. 

One of my favorite days on trail. First of all, there was beautiful  weather and beautiful scenery. Second of all, I was just in the greatest of moods (partly brought on by the beautiful weather and beautiful scenery). 

I spent the day exploring the hills that surrounded the campground. It was lovely. I have to come back here again.

Story Time: Around 9:30 in the evening (it’s pitch black outside), I’m walking back to my tent after filling up water, and some guy walking by asks “is this your tent?” “Yeah,” I say, unsure why he wanted to know. “Well you can’t camp here” he said. Confused by that, I shine my headlamp at him to get a look, and the first thing I see is a gun on his hip – oh boy. The second thing I see is a park ranger patch on his shoulder and the uniform overall – okay, I can handle this. I respectfully say, “Sorry sir, I thought this was a designated campground. He replied, “It is, but don’t you know how far from water you have to camp?” – I remember learning this… “Umm, I know on trail it’s 100 feet away, I didn’t know it applies to campgrounds too,” “Well it does,” he said sternly. “It’s part of leave no trace. When people have to use the bathroom, especially late at night, they aren’t going far from their tent. Some people drink this water unfiltered – it was safe to drink when you arrived, it should be the same when you leave.” Without fully understanding I said, “I understand. I can move my tent now if you’d like.” He replied, “You can stay there tonight, just don’t do it again.” 

All-righty then… goodnight. 

Day 70: 

As I was packing up in the morning, Aaron (who apparently had an early start) hiked up and hung out while I got ready. 

There was minimal climbing today, so I was able to maintain a good pace. 

It was quite scenic – lots of woods, mountains, and creeks.

Camped with a guy named Doc (he just earned his PH.D.) halfway up a pretty long climb.

19 miles today. 

Happy hiking:

This is what I’m talking about:

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Day 71:

Hiker hunger is real folks. I’m hungry all of the time.

Pushed myself to climb Donahue Pass. Had cell service, so I facetimed with my dad from the top. 

Camped with John, a history teacher who who hikes every summer he has off. What a winner!

14 miles today.

How purty:

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Video Update (Day 70):

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Day 68:

Today, I took a mental health day. Slept in, ate a bunch, did some laundry, took a nap – all the good stuff. 

I also made time to call the family, with whom I minimized the food related struggles I just went through as I answered “how are you doing?” question, as not to cause uneccessary worry (especially with the grandparents, as it sometimes seems like their highest priority in life is to make sure I’m well fed.) 
Although taking the entire day off was tempting, I decided I needed to get back on the horse and at least sleep on trail tonight.

Took the ferry back to trail at 4pm, and met the most wonderful elderly couple, who were just beginning a multi-day hike of their own (carrying full packs and everything). They were in their 80’s by the way, and I was super inspired (you should be too). I spoke to them about my hike and my timeline – it was dawning on me that I was falling behind schedule. She turned to me, smiled and said “I think you can make it. Here’s my card, send me and email when you get to Canada.” My heart melted. How could I let her down? I’m going to pull it together and make it happen…. starting tomorrow. 

And there I was, back on trail. I still wasn’t feeling like myself, and only hiked until I found a nice campsite that had cell signal and water access (about 2 miles). Ate dinner and passed out. 

Happy to be back on the PCT. 

Heading to trail with my new friends:

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Day 69:

Woke up feeling great. Found my hiking flow early.

Climbed up and over Silver Pass, thinking the hard work was behind me for the day, but the rest of the afternoon was filled with steep inclines and declines – some that were more challenging than the pass.

Took a break with some friends I met at a lake, almost decided to camp with them, but instead pushed on – wanting to reach the 900 mile mark by the end of the day. Pushed hard, but stopped when it got dark. 897 will have to do.

17 miles today.

Lakeside:

The view:

No video, as I had very little space on my phone.

Day 65:

I didn’t wake up hungry today. I am so grateful to have that basic need met. 

For breakfast, I had the best hot cocoa of life (another generous donation from the Hartz family). 

After picking up my resupply bucket from Muir Trail Ranch, I packed up and hit the trail.

Slowly but surely I made miles. Selden pass was absolutely beautiful. Met Frogman at the summit, and we hung out for a while as we took in the view. 

The climb down was just as pretty, but as the sun began to set, the mosquitos came out in swarms. 

I set up my tent at a campsite near Marie Lake, and hopped in. I “eliminated” the few mosquitos who followed me in. It’s a cruel work out there folks.

9 Miles

Climbing up:

Selden Pass:

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Day 66:

Rest day…

Woke up to a beautiful morning. Unfortunately, the mosquitos were just as aggressive as they were last night, so I stayed in my tent for the most part.

Read a book of Kerouac like short stories called “Jesus’ Son,” by Denis Johnson. Not my favorite…

I gave myself a free pass on eating, since I knew the upcoming Vermillion Valley Resort (VVR) had a general store. When I tallied the damage at the end of the day, I realized I ate 3 days worth of food. My stomach hurts…

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Day 67:

Yay! It’s not freezing cold this morning. 

My stomach still hurts. Maybe over-eating after under-eating wasn’t the best move.

Another slower than average day, as I only needed 12 miles to get to the VVR side trail.

Caught the last ferry to VVR. And by “ferry,” I mean a tiny old speedboat. Wandered around until I found some cell service and called my mom to let her know the resolution of the food situation saga (I hadn’t directly spoken to her since Kennedy Meadows).

I bought a bunch of food at the general store to make up for the food I ate yesterday (plus some extra… okay, a lot extra).

Free shower! A couple who I shared the Ferry with (they are hiking the JMT), graciously offered access to the room they rented. There wasn’t much pressure and the water was cold, but it did the job. Much appreciated! 

Sat around the fire pit with some fellow hikers and was brave enough to pull out the ukulele. Everyone seemed to enjoy it! 

I retreated to my tent for some more food and sleep.

12 miles.

Over the river and through the woods…

Waiting for the ferry to VVR:

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Video:

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Although I started the day pretty early, I also started the day pretty hungry.

All I have left at this point is two 3oz tuna packets and about a cup of rice. This is bad…

While I was taking a rest and refilling water, Honey Bee and Hidalgo passed by and pointed out the green onions (scallions) that were growing alongside the trail. YES! FOOD! I pick a handful, rinse the dirt off in the stream, and start chomping away. I kid you not, at this point, the sensation of chewing and swallowing is euphoric, and I’m honestly not sure if my eyes are watering from the onions or from the joy. I pack up some scallions for later, and push on. 

I try to control myself as best as I can, but by 3pm, I have eaten the remainder of the tuna and rice.

Closer to 5pm, I meet Feelins, another hiker on her way to Muir Trail Ranch (MTR). “I think it will be closed by the time we get there,” she says. My heart sinks. But as any reasonable person would do, I resort to denial. Hope was the only fuel I had left. So we push on (At this point I’m moving at a snails pace at best, and soon Feelins is way ahead). 

I arrive at MTR just after 6pm. At the gate, a young lady informs me that they are closed for the night, and won’t reopen until the morning. Is there any way I can get my bucket, please? “Sorry.” Can I at least check out the hiker box? “No, it’s all put away.” Then what am I supposed to do? “Up that hill is where all the hikers are camping out. You can get your bucket in the morning. Sorry.” 

I’m broken. Hope is lost. 

I drag myself up to the campground. I pass by Feelins and the other PCTers laughing around the campfire. I just want a quiet place to lie down. 

I find a spot and all but collapse. As I lie there, hands over my face, I try to convince myself that I can do this, it’s just one more night. I guess I can eat the scallions? 

I slowly get up and very sloppily set up my tent. One of guys form the group next to me looks over and says “Hey, do you need some hot water? We have a bunch here.” Hot water? Why? “No thanks, I’ll be good till the morning,” I say, unsure if that was the correct response. A few minutes later he comes over and apologizes. “Sorry if I offended you, I was just offering you hot water in case you were going to cook, to save you the trouble of boiling it yourself.” Oh, now I get it… “No, I’m sorry,” I said, “I ran out of food a couple of days ago and I’m really really out of it.” Pointing back towards his camp he says “Well come over, we have a bunch of food we were going to throw in the hiker box tomorrow. You are welcome to it.” SERIOUSLY?

I walk with him, he sits on a chair and I sit on the ground next to it. He introduces me to everyone in the circle, his two sons (with whom he is hiking the JMT), the Royals (a couple also hiking JMT -whose real names are Will and Kate), and Singularity (a JMT hiker who happens to be a physicist and also lost a boot once in an attempt to throw it across a river). A bucket is handed to me – M&Ms, trail mix, peanut butter, tortillas, olive oil… SERIOUSLY? I ask, “can I take from here without discretion?” He chuckles, “Pretty much, just leave a little. We promised to help out one more guy.” 

I ate. And I ate. And I ate. (I even took some to go). As I began to feel better, I joined the conversations. Everyone was great. I was especially inspired by the two young boys holding their own on a trail that nearly took me out. Also, by their dad, who was not only awesome enough to take them on this trip, but was also willing to carry a lot of extra weight to make it possible for them to do it. Major props, Hartz family. 

I went to sleep with a full belly. I passed on the scallions.

19 miles.

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I want to recognize the kindness, the straight up, unadulterated kindness that I experienced during my time of struggle. I think it arguably saved my life, and it definitely saved my sanity. 

To all of you: THANK YOU

Ben

Phil & Gosia

Not You

Derek

Nelson

Cool Hands

Hartz Family 

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Morning in Muir Shelter:

Hiker Salad:

Hey John:

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Bonus Footage #1:

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Bonus Footage #2:

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Day 62:

Beautiful morning!

Climbed up to Mather Pass and was rewarded with a spectacular view. It was a tricky descent, as there was a lot of snow, and I often had to improvise my own trail. 

Later in the day I met Derek, who spends his summers hiking and fishing in the Sierra (he works in education, high school athletics). During our conversations, I confessed that I was desperately low on food, and he was kind enough to gift me a peanut butter packet and a candy bar. So thankful! 

Soon after splitting up with Derek, I stared hiking with Ben. Several miles and a couple river crossings layer, we set up camp at 9pm with Grill Man and Yard Sale. Hung out around the campfire before calling it a night. (I went to sleep early… I figured that the best food conservation strategy was to not be awake.)

18 miles.

Mather Pass:

Alpine Lake View:

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Day 63:

No joke, I’m out of food. A single instant oatmeal packet for breakfast, and nothing until my mini lunch at 1:30pm. 

When I’m hungry I either try to nap or chug water… neither really help.

It’s a shame to feel this way in one of the most beautiful areas of the trail. But it’s hard to appreciate the beauty around me when my brain is overwhelmed by the hunger. I’m pretty much hiking blindly at this point, head down, just focused on one foot in front of the other.

Took a break on the way up to Muir Pass, and up comes Nelson. Told him about my situation, and he said that he may be able to spare some food, but he needed to make it to Muir Shleter before sunset, so he couldn’t unpack at the moment. If I could make it to the shelter tonight, the food was mine. 

Mentally the hardest hiking I ever experienced. A very snowy and rocky and wet climb. I gave it everything I had, and by the end of the day, I made it to Muir Shelter.

Nelson gave me some rice and tuna, while his friend Cool Hands gave me some breakfast bars. Seriously, I have no idea how I could have gone on without them.

Honey Bee and Hidalgo were also camping in the shelter. It was nice and warm with all of us in their. 

12 miles…

The trail:

Muir Shelter in sight!

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No video. 

Day 59:

I was right by a water source, had an amazing view, and a good book. Just the right ingredients for a perfect rest day.

The reading material, courtesy of a hiker box, was intense. John Howard Griffin, a white journalist who, through medication, darkened his skin to live as a black man for seven weeks in segregated Mississippi, Louisiana, and Alabama. His book, Black Like Me is the journal of his experience. Highly recommended. 

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Day 60:

My thermometer said it was 31 degrees this morning. Glad I put my water filter inside the sleeping bag last night. If there is any water left in the filter and it freezes, it can break.

As I neared the pass, two hikers, several switchbacks ahead of me yell back to warn me of some upcoming ice on the ridge. I recognized the accents, but could it be? Yes it was! Phil and Gosia! The couple I camped with my first night in trail, who I haven’t seen since mile 62 (and now we are well over 700). So glad to see them!

We decided to descend the pass in style, by glissanding (which is just a fancy term for sliding down the snow on your bottom). IT WAS EPIC. It was probably only a 15 second slide but it was exhilarating (and much faster than hiking). 

My food situation was starting to seriously worry me. I used Phil’s satellite phone to text my mom to see if my next box would be at the Muir Trail Ranch of Vermillion Vallet Resort, so that I could ration appropriately. She had received Sunday’s email too late, the box had already been sent to MTR. Even though I was slightly bummed knowing that I would have to pay $75 to pick it up, I was glad I wouldn’t have to stretch my food as far. 

I split up with Phil and Gosia, they took a side trail to Bishop and I kept hiking. As the sun was setting I summited Glenn Pass. A two pass day! 

Exhausted, I set up camp at the bottom, on the flattest boulder I could find.

(Fun fact:  Earlier in the day, I met two JMT hikers who through normal conversation ended up lecturing me on the historical significance of Beyoncé’s newest album, specifically to the civil rights movement. I gifted them Black Like Me. They were VERY impressed.)

16 miles today. 

Highest point on the PCT:

Phil and Gosia!!!:

The Mountains:

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Day 61:

“In the morning, when you feel unwilling to rise let this thought be present. I am rising to do the work of a human being. Why then am I dissatisfied, if I’m going to do the things for which I do exist and for which I was brought into the world. Or have been made for this? To lie in bed clothes and keep myself warm?”

That’s the motivational quote of the day, and of every cold day, courtesy of Marcus Aurelius. 

Met up with Ben again today. We had lunch together by an awesome river.

Lots of climbing to end the day. I EARNED Pinchot Pass.

Setup camp at 9pm after a 16 mile day.

Did I mention I reached 800 miles today?!

Resting at a lake:

800 Miles:

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No video, as my phone was nearly out of available memory.