Day 152:

Everything I own is wet, and so am I.

Trudged along for just over a mile in the pouring rain until I made it to the promised land – Timberline Lodge. It is warm, dry, and beautiful in every way (but mainly in the warm and dry ways).

Time to regroup and strategize. Should I take a quick respite and get back out there? I really don’t want to. But can I afford to pamper myself and take a second day off? Will that jeopardize my new goals? Let’s check the weather, fate should get a vote. Wow: 80-100% chance of rain until about 7pm… and then 80-100% chance of snow for the rest of the evening. And tomorrow? 30 degrees and sunny all day…. What do you think I decided to do? “One room at the lodge please!”

With that decision, I’m giving myself two days to cover 46 miles. Doable? Yes. Easy? Not a chance.

While I was waiting for the room, I picked up my re-supply box, did laundry, and snacked.

And I made a couple of phone calls. The first was with a taxi company, arranging a ride to Portland on Tuesday. The second was with my Dad, who really encouraged me to give this last stretch of trail my all. And so I will. Tomorrow I have decided to reach for a personal record, I’m going to hike 30 miles in a day. Let’s finish this thing strong!

1 mile today. And I’m okay with that.

The reason why I am not leaving the lodge today:

Me and all my friends enjoying the lodge:

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Day 153:

Morning!

Started hiking at 6:30am. The sun is out and the views are beautiful. Finally feeling good!

Hiked nonstop until around 3:30pm, when I ran into Rapunzel and Clicker. I haven’t seen Rapunzel since my second week on trail – literally two thousand miles ago! Apparently, they flipped and are hiking SOBO now. I told them about Oregon and they told me about Washington. We shared how we felt about the end of our hikes.

And then I hiked on.

At this point, I’ve done 18 miles – More than halfway there! Lets keep it going.

A few hours after sunset, I reached the trail junction for Eagle Creek, the alternate route to the Bridge of the Gods that’s more scenic and shorter (win-win). I’m calling it a night (it’s 9:15pm!).

I DID IT!!! A 30 MILE DAY!

30.7 MILES TODAY – in 15 hours (and yes, the 0.7 matters!)

So close, yet so far:

Woods:

Smile because its sunny:

My last sunset:

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Day 154:

COLD MORNING! 27 degrees. Started hiking at 6:45am. Just 15 miles to go!

WOW – The Eagle Creek alternate is epic! Fall colored leaves, moss everywhere, shiny stones. Oh, and waterfalls – lots and lots of waterfalls. This is seriously magical.

Eventually, I approached the PCT reconnect, and the Bridge of the Gods.

Since there isn’t a pedestrian crossing, hikers usually have to carefully keep to the sides of the bridge to avoid getting side-swiped by a passing car. But not this time. Because of some maintenance going on, half the bridge was closed – and so each direction of cars took turns using the single available lane.

When I approached and expressed my intent to cross on foot to the construction worker on the Southside, he radioed his Northside counterpart and they stopped traffic. And so I walked across the Bridge of the Gods alone  – just me. To my left and right are mountains, above me is a clear sky, below me is the Columbia River, behind me is Oregon, and ahead of me is Washington. Here I am in the middle of it all. This moment is just for me. And it’s a very special one.

I step into Washington.

Standing there soaking it all in. Reflecting on everything that has led up to this moment. Feeling overwhelmed. Doing my best to celebrate what I accomplished rather than dwell on what I didn’t. Realizing that I did an amazing thing. Understanding that its over. Wondering whats next. Asking myself if that matters.

Saying thank you to the mountains and the trail. Saying thank you to the hikers and the trail angels. Saying thank you to the bears and the marmots and even the mountain lion. Saying thank you to my mom. Saying thank you to everything and everyone that was part of my Pacific Crest Trail. Saying thank you to me. Thank you to my feet, to my body, to my life.

My phone rings. Now I have to go.

I walk back across the bridge and get into the cab. We drive away.

Goodbye my friend. You mean everything to me.

15 miles today.

2,144 miles so far.

Big ol’ leaf:

Waterfalls for days:

Bridge of the Gods:

WASHINGSTON:

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Video:

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Thank you for your support throughout this journey. It really means so much to me.

That’s all for now. Max out.

Day 148:

So I’m back on trail… and I’m sick.

And I mean sick sick. All the indigestion issues plus a fever. Hiking is slow and painful. No appetite. No energy.

Did I mention its 40 degrees and raining today?

Cold wet and sick… Fantastic.

I gave up at 3:30pm. Pitched the tent, wrapped myself in any dry clothing I had left, lied down, and hugged my knees to my chest – It wasn’t pretty.

I managed to force down an instant soup. So in addition to the 2 Cliff bars I ate earlier – today wasn’t the most nutritious.

This. Is. The. Worst.

I’m not sure I can do this much longer.

9 Miles.

Feels bad man:

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Day 149:

Today I feel a bit better. Was able to start hiking at 8am.

Still cold and still wet, but it’s only drizzling for now. I can handle that.

Again, no appetite – so mainly eating snack bars.

Throughout the day, the discomfort came in waves – sometimes I was okay, and sometimes I just wasn’t.

But I pushed myself. I pushed myself hard. Tried to smile. Tried a lot of positive self talk.

I talked myself through my emotions – my hopes and my fears. And I realized that this isn’t what I want anymore. Im hiking for the idea of finishing rather than the experience of finishing. I don’t want to hike through the cold and the rain every day for the next month. Honestly, I don’t think I could if I did.

I reached some cell service, and I booked a flight home. But not for today – Im not done just yet. I’m going to hike to Washington. I am going to walk across the Bridge of the Gods and finish another state. I am going to finish hiking Oregon. “Max, by the end of this you will have hiked the entire lengths of California and Oregon – over 2000 miles. You should be proud of what you have accomplished.” I told you I tried positive self talk.

I can’t tell you I feel good about this decision. Because I don’t. I am immensely sad. But I know its the right thing to do. In time I will accept that.

23 miles.

Smiling when I can:

I will miss this:

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Day 150:

As expected, it was a cold and wet start to the day. And that isn’t going to change.

By noon I was soaked to the skin –  there was nothing I could do about it.

And then my day got worse. Listen to this story:

I crossed a road, and found myself at a trailhead with a small gravel parking lot and a picnic table. Even though it was raining, I decided to try being a civilized human and sit at the table for lunch. I noticed a white van in the parking lot, but didn’t think much of it. Eventually, from across the lot I see a man in a rain jacket (hood up) begin walking in my direction. I noticed in one hand he had a white bucket and in the other, some sort of tool. ‘Wow, what a dedicated trail service worker,’ I thought. You see, it wasn’t unusual for me to encounter volunteers on trail clearing debris or replacing trail markers or something like that. The fact that he was working in these conditions really impressed me. Until he got a bit closer… and I noticed that the “tool” in his hand was in fact a knife – held blade up. I think with good reason, I got nervous. I stood up and thought about what I could do if the situation escalated. I grasped my trekking pole. But, maybe I’m being unreasonable. Maybe my imagination is running wild. Maybe this is nothing. “Hey! How’s it going?” I shouted. No answer. “Lovely weather we are having, isn’t it?” I said (Might as well give humor a shot). He grunted – something like a “mmmm.” A GRUNT! HE SERIOUSLY GRUNTED! What am I supposed to do with that?! Is he under the influence? Does he have some other interest besides a conversation? What is going on?! As he got closer I noticed he wasn’t even looking at me, his eyes were really shifty – consistently scanning side to side. This is weird. AND, just at that moment, from the trail to my left, another man appears. But instead of a rain jacket, this guy is wearing a garbage bag (with sleeves cut out, of course) and a baseball cap. To my chagrin, he too had a knife – blade up. I gripped my trekking pole tighter. Both men stopped walking. ‘Okay Max,’ I thought ‘This is how it happens…. unless you fight for your life.’ I looked at the garbage bag man, he was closer, and I noticed that instead of a bucket, he had a plastic basket in the other hand- similar to what you use at the grocery store. And in the basket I saw something strange – a mushroom. ‘WAIT A MINUTE! I never saw any baskets of mushrooms in the Texas Chainsaw Massacre films. Are these guys just out here foraging for mushrooms?’ Hopeful, but apprehensive, I tried the whole speaking thing again. “Are you guys picking mushrooms?” I asked garbage bag man. ANOTHER GRUNT! WHAT IS WITH THE GRUNTING?! But at least this one sounded somewhat like an affirmation – “mmhmm.” So I kept trying: “Find anything good?” He didn’t say anything. Instead, he slowly turned the basket towards me, revealing half a dozen mushrooms. “Cool” I say, still unsure of my safety. He walks towards his companion, they turn away, walk through the gravel parking lot, and get in the van. I’m pretty sure I was safe, BUT, just in case, I threw my backpack on and high-tailed it up trail. 

In retrospect, I recall a conversation I had with an Oregon local about mushroom foraging. He told me its very secretive, people don’t share foraging intel with their friends, and especially not with strangers. And of course, mushrooms thrive in soggy conditions. So it all makes sense now. But in the moment, well, that was something else.

Oh, and then my day got worse….

So just to recap, Im sick, cold, emotionally exhausted, and I haven’t really eaten in two days. It’s 4:30ish and I don’t feel so good. I conceded that I wasn’t going to make it to Timberline Lodge tonight, so I set a goal to camp at the next water source. Well I didn’t make it. At one point, I felt like I was going to collapse, and I was afraid of what passing out in this weather could result it. I set up my tent just 0.7 miles short of the next water, but when you cant go on, you cant go on.

And now I’m cold. But seriously cold. As in cold to the core. As in I have never felt this cold in my life. As in scary cold.

I wrap myself in all the clothes and slipped into my sleeping bag. Despite that, and hour later, I’m still just as cold – maybe colder. In all seriousness, what does hypothermia feel like?

I check and there is cell reception here. I literally google “symptoms of hypothermia” and read the list. I pretty much check all the boxes. This can’t be good. But I thought since i’m in the moment, maybe i’m overreacting. I need a 3rd party perspective. Can’t call family – they would freak out, so I call Rick (yes, the cab driver). I explained my situation, and he was really concerned. He said he will think of something and get back to me, so we hung up. He texts me a few minutes later saying that he gave my phone number to Search and Rescue and to expect a call. I spoke with the officer and she seemed the exact opposite of concerned. She said since I was speaking in complete sentences, then she doubts I’m hypothermic. I’m just cold. She advised I either pack up and hike to Timberline Lodge now or stay put and hike out in the daylight. I guess i’m staying put. Goodnight…

18 miles.

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Day 151:

I woke up, so thats a good sign.

And today is Saturday, my rest day. I am just going to sit here and do nothing. I earned a day off.

Tomorrow is a new day.

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Video (Warning: May cause sadness):